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1 Bouchon, Basile
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. c.1725 Lyon, France[br]French pioneer in automatic pattern selection for weaving.[br]In the earliest draw looms, the pattern to be woven was selected by means of loops of string that were loosely tied round the appropriate leashes, which had to be lifted to make that pick of the pattern by raising the appropriate warp threads. In Isfahan, Persia, looms were seen in the 1970s where a boy sat in the top of the loom. Before the weaver could weave the next pick, the boy selected the appropriate loop of string, pulled out those leashes which were tied in it and lifted them up by means of a forked stick. The weaver below him held up these leashes by a pair of wooden sticks and sent the shuttle through that shed while the boy was sorting out the next loop of string with its leashes. When the pick had been completed, the first loop was dropped further down the leashes and, presumably, when the whole sequence of that pattern was finished, all the loops had be pushed up the leashes to the top of the loom again.Models in the Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers, Paris, show that in 1725 Bouchon, a worker in Lyon, dispensed with the loops of string and selected the appropriate leashes by employing a band of pierced paper pressed against a row of horizontal wires by the drawboy using a hand-bar so as to push forward those which happened to lie opposite the blank spaces. These connected with loops at the lower extremity of vertical wires linked to the leashes at the top of the loom. The vertical wires could be pulled down by a comb-like rack beside the drawboy at the side of the loom in order to pull up the appropriate leashes to make the next shed. Bouchon seems to have had only one row of needles or wires, which must have limited the width of the patterns. This is an early form of mechanical memory, used in computers much later. The apparatus was improved subsequently by Falcon and Jacquard.[br]Further ReadingA.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London (a brief description of Bouchon's apparatus).M.Daumas (ed.), 1968, Histoire générale des techniques Vol. III: L'Expansion dumachinisme, Paris (a description of this apparatus, with a diagram). Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers, 1942, Catalogue du musée, section T, industries textiles, teintures et apprêts, Paris (another brief description; a model can be seen in this museum).C.Singer, (ed.), 1957, A History of Technology, Vol. III, Oxford: Clarendon Press (provides an illustration of Bouchon's apparatus).RLH -
2 Thimmonier, Barthélémy
[br]b. 1793 Saint-Etienne, France d. 1857[br]French inventor of the first sewing machine.[br]The sewing machine is probably the most universal and the most important machine in clothing manufacture, being used both industrially and domestically. It was also the first domestic consumer durable and was the first mass-produced machine to appear in the home. The first practical sewing machine was built during 1828 and 1829 by Barthélémy Thimmonier, a working tailor of Saint-Etienne in France. He came from a modest family and had never received any training as a mechanic, so his invention is all the more remarkable. He took out a patent in 1830 in his own name and that of Ferrand, a tutor of the Saint-Etienne School of Mines who had helped him financially. It was a chain-stitch machine made largely of wood and operated by a foot pedal with a large flywheel. The needle moved up and down through the cloth, which was placed on a platform below it. A second, hooked needle under the platform made a loop in the thread, which was caught when the first needle descended again.In 1841, Thimmonier was appointed to a senior position in a large Paris clothing factory engaged in the production of French army uniforms. He soon had eighty machines in use, but a mob of hand-sewers broke in, smashed the machines and nearly killed Thimmonier. In 1845, he had developed his machine so that it could make 200 stitches per minute and formed a partnership with Jean-Marie Magnin to build them commercially. However, the abdication of Louis Philippe on 21 February 1848 ended his hopes, even though patents were taken out in the UK and the USA in that year. The English patent was in Magnin's name, and Thimmonier died impoverished in 1857. His machine was perfected by many later inventors.[br]Bibliography1830, with Ferrand, (chain-stitch machine).Further ReadingA.Matagran, 1931, "Barthélémy Thimmonier (1793–1857), inventeur de la machine à coudre", Bull. Soc. Enc. Industr. nat. 130 (biography in French).J.Meyssin, 1914, Histoire de la machine à coudre: portrait et biographie de l'inventeur B.Thimmonier, 5th edn, Lyons (biography in French).M.Daumas, (ed.), 1968, Histoire générale des techniques, Vol. III: L'Expansion du machinisme, Paris (includes a description of Thimmonier's machine, with a picture).N.Salmon, 1863, History of the Sewing Machine from the Year 1750 (tells the history of the sewing machine).F.B.Jewell, 1975, Veteran Sewing Machines. A Collector's Guide, Newton Abbot (a more modern account).RLH -
3 Falcon
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. c.1728 France[br]French improver of the pattern-selection apparatus of Bouchon for weaving.[br]In 1728, Falcon used punched cards, one for each pick, to replace the roll of pierced paper that Bouchon had used for storing the pattern to be woven. The selection of the leashes was the same as the method used by Bouchon. The appropriate card was pressed against a set of horizontal needles at the side of the loom by the drawboy, who then lifted those leashes that had been selected ready for the weaver to send the shuttle across for that pick. The cards could be sewn up into an endless loop so the pattern could be repeated time after time. This apparatus could select a greater width of pattern than Bouchon's because the cards were pressed against the needles by a square block of wood known as the prism or cylinder. This meant that rows of needles could be mounted below each other, allowing for many more to be fitted into the space. Vaucanson tried to make alterations to this apparatus, but the Falcon method remained in use until 1817 at Lyon and formed the basis for the later improvements by Jacquard.[br]Further ReadingM.Daumas (ed.), 1968, Histoire générale des techniques, Vol. III, L'Expansion du machinisme, Paris.Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers, 1942, Catalogue du musée, section T, industries textiles, teintures et apprêtes, Paris (includes a picture of a model of Falcon's apparatus in the museum).RLH -
4 Girard, Philippe de
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. 1775 Franced. 1845[br]French developer of a successful flax-heckling machine for the preparation of fibres for power-spinning.[br]Early drawing and spinning processes failed to give linen yarn the requisite fineness and homogeneity. In 1810 Napoleon offered a prize of a million francs for a successful flax-spinning machine as part of his policy of stimulating the French textile industries. Spurred on by this offer, Girard suggested three improvements. He was too late to win the prize, but his ideas were patented in England in 1814, although not under his own name. He proposed that the fibres should be soaked in a very hot alkaline solution both before drawing and immediately before they went to the spindles. The actual drawing was to be done by passing the dried material through combs or gills that moved alternately; gill drawing was taken up in England in 1816. His method of wet spinning was never a commercial success, but his processes were adopted in part and developed in Britain and spread to Austria, Poland and France, for his ideas were essentially good and produced a superior product. The successful power-spinning of linen thread from flax depended primarily upon the initial processes of heckling and drawing. The heckling of the bundles or stricks of flax, so as to separate the long fibres of "line" from the shorter ones of "tow", was extremely difficult to mechanize, for each strick had to be combed on both sides in turn and then in the reverse direction. It was to this problem that Girard next turned his attention, inventing a successful machine in 1832 that subsequently was improved in England. The strick was placed between two vertical sheets of combs that moved opposite to each other, depositing the tow upon a revolving cylinder covered with a brush at the bottom of the machine, while the holder from which the strick was suspended moved up and down so as to help the teeth to penetrate deeper into the flax. The tow was removed from the cylinder at the bottom of the machine and taken away to be spun like cotton. The long line fibres were removed from the top of the machine and required further processing if the yarn was to be uniform.When N.L.Sadi Carnot's book Réflexions sur la puissance motrice du feu, was published in 1824, Girard made a favourable report on it.[br]Further ReadingM.Daumas (ed.), 1968, Histoire générale des techniques, Vol. III: L'Expansion duMachinisme, Paris.C.Singer (ed.), 1958, A History of'Technology, Vol. IV, Oxford: Clarendon Press. T.K.Derry and T.I.Williams, 1960, A Short History of Technology from the EarliestTimes to AD 1900, Oxford.W.A.McCutcheon, 1966–7, "Water power in the North of Ireland", Transactions of the Newcomen Society 39 (discusses the spinning of flax and mentions Girard).RLH
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